Saturday, January 30, 2016

Udawalawe National Park

The Udawalawe National Park lies just south of the Central Highlands, in the boundary of Rathnepura District in Monaragala Districts Sri Lanka. It provide a sanctuary for wild animals displaced by the construction of the Udawalawe Reservoir on the Walawe River as expected by its establishment, and protects the catchment of the reservoir, which provides water for agriculture and hydro-power generation.  It’s a major eco-tourism destination in Sri Lanka and the third most visited park in the country may be because is an important habitat for water birds and Sri Lankan elephants.
 A feature of the Udawalawe Park is the Elephant Transit Home where shelter, food and security are provided for the wounded, destitute or motherless baby elephants until they are independent and able to fend for themselves in the jungle.[4]
Furthermore, the surrounding areas of Udawalawe is filled to the brim with other illustrious attractions and tourist destinations. For example, the Wavulpane Limestone caves and the hot wells, are all present in the vicinity of the Udawalawe National Park. These factors contribute to the enhancement of the overall brilliance and significance of Udawalawe as one of the premier tourist destinations of Sri Lanka.[11]







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Size / Area

Udawalawe national park spans 30,821 hectares [2]
The surface area of Udawalawe reservoir 3400ha[8]

Boundaries


West – Kolambage aru, Pahanaduwa, Galpaya, Welanketiya
East – Maw aru, Mountains of Wehaeragala and Bellangala
North – Katupath Oya, Diyawini Oya
South – Udawalawa – Thanamalwila Main road [12]



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History


It was was designated and established as the fifth national park of Sri Lanka , on 30th  June 1972 under the Fauna and Flora Protection ordinance. [2]
The Department of Wildlife Conservation opened the Elephant Transit Home Home in October 1995. [4]
Before the designation of the national park, the area was used for shifting cultivation (chena farming). The farmers were gradually removed once the national park was declared.
The mountainous area around Udawalawe retained denser populations but underwent significant depopulation after the 1818 insurrection against the British. By the time the British arrived, the Walawe basin was sparsely populated. Those who lived in the area relied on the ancient tanks for water for domestic and agricultural purposes, although most people in the area practiced slash-and-burn agriculture known locally as chena. In 1818, a Government Agent visited one of the main villages and described it as a thick jungle area infested with malaria and populated with only 18 persons [20][14]
Until the extreme drought of 1866, which caused a high mortality and elicited strong calls for the development of large-scale irrigation projects, the British had only undertaken a few minor settlement and rehabilitation works on the ancient tanks and anicuts in the Walawe basin (Steele 1867).
By the early 1940s, the British initiated more ambitious plans for the Walawe River Basin Scheme. These development plans laid out schematic “blue prints” for a large-scale irrigation and rural-development project.[14]
Shortly after independence in 1948 the government rehabilitated some ancient tanks and continued survey work and feasibility studies for the Walawe basin scheme. Concurrently, other plans were developed for the basin, envisioned a scheme composed of five dams, including Samanala and Uda Walawe dams. In 1963, the Irrigation Department unveiled a plan for the Uda Walawe reservoir based on design work by ECI that eventually became known as the UWIRP. [14]

Ancient History

Modern water resources developments in the Uda Walawe basin are superimposed over a rich history of water control and irrigation in the region. Archaeological studies indicate that the Walawe river valley was populated several thousand years ago, man’s settlement in the Balangoda city, which straddles the western boundary of the Walawe river basin, and its surrounding valleys, date back to 6,500 B.C. [21][14].Pre historical human skeletal parts which is believed to be 28000 years old have been found from “Bellanbendipelessa” an area near Handagiriya.[2]
Sri Lankan legends, as well as Valmiki’s Ramayanaya, report that King Ravana, who lived in this area around 1500 BC and ruled part of Sri Lanka, resided in the Walawe basin before departing to India to capture Rama.[19]

“Magama”,
 an important city of the once powerful ancient Ruhuna kingdom mentioned in the Mahawamsa as early as 246 B.C., was located in the middle of the present UWIRP (Uda Walawe Irrigation and Resettlement Project) project area. [22]
King Dutugemunu (161–137BC) and King Walagamba (104–76 BC) developed paddy fields extensively in the southeastern Sri Lanka, including anicut-based irrigation systems upstream of Walawe. [23,24] In the Kandyan period (1524–1815) there were also significant migration and settlement in the area (with the founding of several temples).

“Kaltota”,
located 14 km southeast of the Balangoda town, was an ancient kingdom called “Kalathitha Pura”, which developed in parallel to the Anuradhapura kingdom around the second centuryBC [2,24]. The ruins of the ancient Buddhist temple near Kaltota, “Budugala Purana Rajamaha Viharaya” and “Kuragala Purana Rajamaha Viharaya” show evidence of ancient civilization.  According to the collection of old documents of Sabaragamuwa Kaltota was the most developed city of Sabaragamuwa Province (Ghanawimala 1942). The area that lies between the Samanalawewa dam and the Kaltota irrigation scheme, a few kilometers downstream, has yielded many ancient artifacts. In particular, a unique wind-powered iron-smelting furnace was unearthed, which used the high-velocity winds during the southwest monsoon capable of producing high-quality steel that was supplied to the Islamic world for sword-making from the third century BC to the twelfth century AD (Juleff 1996).

“Handagiriya”,
or Sandagiriya, (ancient “Chandana Grama”) presently called Katupath oya gama and located in the north-western corner of Uda Walawe National Park, was the center of the ancient Kaltota kingdom. Also the historical book “Poojavaliya” says Handagiriya is an ancient provincial kingdom and the area was abundant of sandalwood trees. The ruins show evidence of many tanks that have functioned in this area, out of which only five are still in use (Medhananda 1992). [19]  

It is believed that the basin was a prosperous area from the second century B.C. and began to decline around the thirteenth century. Until the mid-twentieth century, the population in the Walawe plain dwindled. In 1622, in the reign of King Senarath, Kaltota was a storage village whose population had declined drastically. [23, 24, 25] A number of factors likely influenced the collapse of communities in the plains, including repeated attacks from enemies, malaria [23, 24, 25] or the attraction of better opportunities in the wet zone. [14]
                                                                                     
Sri Sankapala Raja Maha Viharaya
There are two historical places near to Udawalawe Park. One is ‘Sankapala’ temple which was built at the stage of king Dutugemunu (161-137 BC), and the Bambaragala monastery. Folklore has it that Pussa Deva a warrior of King Dutu Gemunu (161-131 BC) resided here. This is confirmed by the fact that Pussa Devas name has been mentioned in the rock inscriptions. Pussa Deva who played a prominent part in King Dutugemunu's wars was well versed in the art of war and blowing the conch shell (‘Sanka’). Hence the emblem conch shell was used to identify him. Further it is mentioned that later-on in life he was ordained a monk and achieved the state of Rahath. However, owing to the evils of nature this abode had been later abandoned. This place was resurrected again and made a popular place of worship by Venerable Karathota Dharmarama during the Kandyan period. It is learnt that King Rajadhi Rajasingha gifted Venerable Dharmarama the village of Pallebedda for his good deeds. [13]
A folklore says that the mighty army commander of the king Gajaba (113-135 AD), “Neela” who is born in a village near Walawe river, has built up a dam across the river to make a tank for the wealth and development of the valley. According to the history King Gajaba has rewarded 24 villages in the  Walawe river valley including present “Ridiyagama” to “Neela” in appreciation of his victory against “Chola” (A south Indian community).

Following is an ancient Sinhala rhyme refers to tamed elephants, who were treated with the respect due to a bodhisattva, who climbed from the sacred mountain, Śrī Pada down to the Walawe River.

“Kande kaka lande yana bosattu
Atha minibenda paya minibenda jaya gaththu
Raja saben sonda karuna lebagattu
Walawe gangata bessai gomara eththu”
Meaning
Ones with noble qualities, feeding form mountain side and going towards the woods
The victorious ones charmingly worn with ornaments
Who were well treated by the royalty
They are the tuskers getting down to the Walawe river

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Physical features

Altitude of Udawalawe National Park ranges from about 100m on the plains to the 373m at top of Ulgala (Sinhala: the pointed Rock), the highest point within the park. The most topographical features are the Kalthota Escarpment and the spectacular Diyawini Falls to the north and the the outcrops of Bambaragala and Reminikotha lie within it. [10]
The soil and climatic conditions are responsible for classified vegetation types. The predominant ecosystem of the park area is the forest area with scattered grasslands and thorny-shrubs.


Extensive regions of tall grass, scrubs, as well as trees are common sights at Udawalawe. mountainous and rocky areas are also not uncommon. [2,11] Areas of open grassland are abundant as a result of former chena farming practices. There is a plantation of teak beyond the southern boundary, below the dam, which was planted before the declaration of the park.[16]

Bio-diversity

Species recorded from the park include 94 plants, 21 fish, 12 amphibians, 33 reptiles, 184 birds (33 of which are migratory), and 43 mammals. Additionally 135 species of butterflies are among the invertebrates found in Udawalawe. [16]

Flora

The soil and climatic conditions are responsible for classified vegetation types. The predominant ecosystem of the park area is the forest area with scattered grasslands and thorny-shrubs.[2]  Green algae, including Pediastrum and Scenedesmus spp., and blue green algae species such as Microsystis, occur in the reservoir. [16]
Uva Mandora (Hopea cordifolia), Memecylon petiolatum, Erythroxylon zeylanicum, and Wild jasmine (Jasminum angustifolium) are endemic floral species recorded from the park.
In the grasslands Panicum maximum / Megathyrsus maximus (Guinea grass or green panic grass) and Imperata cylindrica (Spear grass) (Sin. ‘iluk’) are important food sources for the elephants. [16] In addition Cymbopogon confertiflours (Sin. “Maana”) and Grewia tiliifolia (Sin. “Damina, Daminaa, Daminiya”) is common.
Satinwood (Sin. ‘Burutha’) (Chloroxylon swietenia), Trincomalee wood (Sin. ‘Halmilla’) (Berrya cordifolia), (Sin. ‘iluk’) Ceylon ebony (Diospyros ebenum) (Sin. ‘Kaluwara’) Adina cordifolia (Sin. “Kolon”), Vitex pinnata (Sin. ”Milla”), Ceylon oak (Schleichera oleosa) (Sin. “Kon”), and Bastard Ebony (Diospyros ovalifolia) (Sin. “Kunumella”) are the common taller trees.[2]

While the remnants of the Teak plantations that were planted at the time of the construction of the Udawalawe Reservoir is scattered around, Kumbuk (Terminalia arjuna) and the Uva Mandora (Hopea cordifolia) trees abound in the riverine areas.[2,7]Trees such as Satin, Ehala, Lunumidella can also be found here.

Bahera also known as Beleric or bastard myrobalan (Terminalia bellirica) (Sin. “Bulu”) and Goose berry (Phyllanthus emblica) (Sin. “Nelli”) are plants of medicinal value found in the forest.[7]

Fauna


Elephants

Udawalawe National Park is undoubtedly, one of the best places in Sri Lanka to see wild Asian Elephants throughout the year: there are about 500 elephants in the park and they often roam in herds of up to 100. It has no a seasonal variation in herds of elephants. The best hours to visit the park are in the mornings and evenings. Late evening also affords the photographic opportunities in the backdrop of loveliest sunsets.[7] But this is very popular among visitor for elephants because, they can be observed even at mid-day. Herds of elephants can be seen along the river during the dry season which is usually between May and September. [2]

Other Mammals

Among the other attractions of the park, Water Buffalo (Bubalus bubalus bubalus), Wild boar (Suscrofa chirstatus), Spotted Deer (Axis axis ceylonensis), Sambur Deer (Cervus unicolor unicolor), Barking deer (Muntiacus muntjak malabaricus) Jackal (Canis aureus lanka), Black-naped hare, mongooses, bandicoots, foxes, the endemic Toque Macaque (Macaca sinica sinica) Gray Langers (Semnopithecus entellus or Presbytis entellus) and Thick-tailed Pangolin (Manis Crassicaudata) can be seen.
Sighting Sloth Bear (Melursus ursinus inornatus), Leopard (Panthera pardus) and other smaller cats like Fishing cat (Felis viverrina) (Kola Diviya), Rusty-spotted cat (Felis rubiginosa) & Jungle cat (Felis chaus) would be a bonus. [2,7,9]
Other common mammals include Asian palm civet (Paradoxurus hermaphroditus) and black-naped hare (Lepus nigricollis) and the endemic specie golden palm civet (Paradoxurus zeylonensis). Also the rodents like Ceylon spiny mouse (Mus fernandoni) (endemic specie recorded in 1989 nearly 50 years after the first record in Yala National Park in 1936) and the Indian bush rat (Golunda ellioti) also seen here.

Butterflies

Nearly 50 species of butterflies reported in Udawalawe National Park [2] . Satin trees attract beautiful butterflies like Banded Peacock (Papilio crino), Common Jezebel (Delias eucharis), Common Indian Crow (Euploea core) , and many species of ‘Yellows and Whites’ like Common Mormon (Papilio polytes). In the riverine forest areas Common Blue-bottle (Graphium sarpedon) are seen. [7]

Reptiles

While the crocodiles doze off on the banks of the reservoir, the water monitor 
lizards are abound in the park. The common species of reptiles include Bengal Monitor (Varanus bengalensis), Asian Water Monitor (Varanus salvator), Mugger Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris), Oriented Garden Lizard (Calotes versicolor), and painted-lip lizard (Calotes ceylonensis). There 30 species of snakes including Sri Lankan Pipe Snake (Cylindrophis maculata) and many species of Sri Lankan vipers also reported. [7, 11, 16]

Fish Species

Garra ceylonensis is an endemic fish species recorded in park. [2] Introduced Oreochromis spp., giant gourami, catla, and rohu are some fish species found in the reservoir. [16]



Bird Watching

Udawalawe National Park is again one of the most popular places to see Raptors in Sri Lanka and afford excellent opportunities for photography. Out of all the species of avifauna recorded in the park, in a single day at Uda Walawe, a keen eye would sight no less than 100 species of birds. Most of birds gather in large numbers around the tanks of Magam, Habartu, Kiri ibban wewa, Pulgaswewa, Timbirimankada.
Endemic birds include the Ceylon Junglefowl (Gallus lafayettii), Ceylon Spurfowl (Galloperdix bicalcarata), Ceylon Green Pigeon (Treron pompadora), Ceylon Grey Hornbill (Ocyceros gingalensis), Ceylon Woodshrike (Tephrodornis pondicerianus) Red faced Malkoha (Phaenicophaeus pyrrhocephalus), Brown-capped Babbler (Pellorneum fuscocapillus), and Ceylon Swallow (Cecropis hyperythra).
Among the other bird species seen are Spot-billed Pelican (Pelecanus philippensis),  Asian openbill stork (Anastomus oscitans), Little Cormorant (Microcarbo niger), Black-headed ibis or Oriental white ibis (Threskiornis melanocephalus), Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea) , Indian Pond Heron (Ardeola grayii), Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis), Large Egret (Ardea alba), Little Egret (Egretta garzetta), Intermediate Egret (Mesophoyx intermedia), Painted Stork (Mycteria leucocephala), Woolly-necked Stork, Ciconia episcopus), blue peafowl (Pavo cristatus), Yellow-wattled Lapwing (Vanellus malabaricus), Green Bee-eater (Merops orientalis), Crested Tree-swift (Hemiprocne coronata), Indian roller (Coracias benghalensis), Pied crested cuckoo (Clamator jacobinus), and Malabar pied Hornbill (Anthracoceros coronatus).
In forested areas Sirkeer Malkoha (Sirkeer cuckoo) (Phaenicophaeus leschenaultii) and Blue-faced Malkohas (Phaenicophaeus viridirostris) are found. [7]
Birds of prey include, changeable hawk-eagle or crested hawk-eagle (Nisaetus cirrhatus), crested serpent eagle (Spilornis cheela), and Grey-headed fish eagle (Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus).z

During the migrant season of birds (Nov to March): Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus, also classified as Aquila pennata), White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster), Common Kestral (Falco tinnunculus), Harries, Rosy Starlings (Pastor roseus), Wood Sand Piper (Tringa glareola), Common Sand Piper (Actitis hypoleucos), Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius), Whiskered Tern (Chlidonias hybrida or Chlidonias hybridus), Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava), Forest Wagtail (Dendronanthus indicus) Citrine Wagtail (Motacilla citreola) and some of the rarely seen migrants like Black-capped Kingfisher (Halcyon pileata) and White wagtail (Motacilla alba), also observed in the park[2,7,11].

Climate


The park is situated in the dry zone. There is a short dry period in February-March. Sometimes that period is prolonged from mid-May to end of September. This is followed by Northeast monsoon rain in November to mid-January. Due to conventional activity, the rainfall can occur during April-May. The mean annual rainfall is about 1500mm. The annual average temperature is about 29.5 ° C and it can uniform throughout the year. [2]

Location & Access

Udawalawe national park is located approximately 180 km south-east of Colombo city. The total travel (driving) time from Colombo to Udawalawe National Park via Ratnapura is approximately four hours.
The easiest and quickest approach from Colombo is through Rathnapura Pelmadulla on the Embilipitya road. At Thimbolketiya turn left and Udawalwe junction to take the road to Thanamalwila. The entrance to Udawalawe National Park is located nearly 11km away from Thanamalwila junction.
The main entrence to the park is situated at the Udawalawe, Thanamalwila road about 11km from Udawalawe Junction, post between Timbolketiya and Thanamanwila on Pelmadulla-Timbolketiya A18 road, which is southern boundary of the park. [2]
Another entrance was opened at Handagiriya for Udawalawa National Park on 30th October 2015.[1]

The Elephant Transit Home is on the main road about 5km west of the Uda Walawe National Park entrance.
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Map
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Accomodation

Circuit bugalows provided by Department of Wildlife Conservaton, Sri Lanka  – Reserve online

  1. Gonawiddagala Bungalow
  2. Sinnuggala Bungalow
  3. Pokunuthenna Bungalow
  4. Weheragolla Tourist Bungalow
  5. Thimbiriyamankada Bungalow



Camp-sites in Udawalawe National Park
  1. Pranshadahara Camp Site
  2. Alimankada Camp Site
  3. Kaudulu Ara Campsite
  4. Pilima Ath Dara Campsite






Threats and Conservation

Clearing natural forests and planting monospecies cultures such as pine and eucalyptus are causing reduced water levels in the Walawe river.[2] Encroachment by human settlements, poaching, illegal logging, gem mining, overgrazing and chena farming are major threats to the park. Lantana camara and Phyllanthus polyphyllus are invasive weeds affecting the food plants of the elephants. Occasions of elephants being shot with illegal muzzleloader guns has been reported.[15]

The elephant-proof fence around the perimeter of the park prevents elephants, roaming freely around the reserve from getting out of it to attack the surrounding farmland. The fence also prevents the cattle, belonging to the farmers of surrounding villages, from getting into the reserve.[8]


Elephant Transit Home (ETH) at Udawalawe National Park

Elephant Transit Home provides Home where shelter, food and security for the wounded, destitute or motherless baby elephants until they are independent and able to fend for themselves in the jungle. The Department of Wildlife Conservation opened the Home in October 1995. [4] Once they are released to the park, the Park authorities take upon themselves to keep constant track of the beasts till they get used to the new life in the wild. As at the year 2008, no less than sixty-five elephants had been released to the jungle.[7]
Although you can’t get up close and personal with the elephants, a visit at feeding time is still a lot of fun.



References


  1. (Sinhala) Senarathna, P.M. (2009). "Udawalawa". Sri Lankawe Jathika Vanodhyana (2nd ed.). Sarasavi Publishers. pp. 151–161. ISBN 955-573-346-5.
  2. http://www.dwc.gov.lk/library/Np_udawalawa.html
  3. http://www.srilankaecotourism.com/udawalawe_national_park.htm#readmore
  4. http://www.sundaytimes.lk/080330/FunDay/fd2.html
  5. http://www.island.lk/2002/01/20/news12.html
  6. http://www.lonelyplanet.com/sri-lanka/the-hill-country/udawalawe-national-park
  7. https://www.lanka.com/about/attractions/udawalawe-national-park/
  8. http://www.mysrilankaholidays.com/uda-walawe-national-park.html
  9. Scientific Names of Mammals http://www.wildreach.com/reptile/animals/_mammals.php
  10. http://www.srilankabiggamesafaris.com/udawalawe-national-park.html
  11. For information in detail http://udawalawenationalpark.com/
  12.  (Sinhala) Sri Lankawe Wananthara- Sarath Ranaweera (1st Ed.).Wasana publishers.(ISBN-955-655-160-3)
  13. http://www.srisalike.com/Temple/Rathnapura/Sankapala%20Temple.aspx
  14. Economics and Politics of Water Resources Development, Uda Walawe Irrigation Project, Sri Lanka - François Molle and Mary Renwick – 2005
  15. http://www.sundaytimes.lk/090215/News/sundaytimesnews_27.html
  16. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Udawalawe_National_Park
  17. Scientific Names of Plants http://dh-web.org/bot2sinhala.html#G
  18. Scientific Names of Herbals http://www.instituteofayurveda.org/plants/plants_list.php?s=Scientific_name
  19. Anicut Systems in Sri Lanka: The Case of the Upper Walawe River Basin - François Molle, Priyantha Jayakody, Shyamalie de Silva – 2003
  20. Abeyratna L. B., ed. n.d. Ratnapura: As seen by Government Agents. Colombo, Sri Lanka: Department of the Government Printing.
  21. Deraniyagala, S. U. n.d. Early man and the rise of civilization in Sri Lanka: The archaeological evidence. Duplicated.
  22. Collins, C. H. 1932. The Archeology of the Sabaragamuwa Binthenne. Journal of Ceylon, Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society 32(85): 158-183.
  23. Ghanawimala, Kiriella Rev. 1942. “Sabaragamuwe parani liyavili” ([Sinhalese] Old documents of Sabaragamuwa). Colombo, Sri Lanka: Jinadasa Press.
  24. Narada, Vekiliye Rev. 1992. History of Ratnapura. In Sabaragamu Udana 2, ed. Bandula Liyanage. Ratnapura, Sri Lanka: Sabaragamuwa Provincial Council.
  25. Ghanawimala, Kiriella Rev. 1967. Sabaragamu darshanaya ([Sinhalese] The philosophy of Sabaragamuwa). Ratnapura, Sri Lanka: Shasthrodaya Printers.


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